Adventures in Peru

On September 18, 2019, we left for Peru. Our trip would take us from Salt Lake City to Atlanta to Lima and then to Cusco. We were flying first class which was a real treat as we had access to the First Class Lounges at the airports. The longest leg of the flight was Atlanta to Lima. We got to Lima late at night and went through a long line at customs.  We stayed at a Hotel adjacent to the airport that night. The next morning we boarded a flight to Cusco. We were met there by an agent of the Hotel Belmond Monasterio who drove us to the hotel and told us about a tour we might want to take the next day. Our room was not ready so we walked around town and saw the town square Cathedral. We both were feeling the altitude when walking uphill. Cusco is at 11,000 feet elevation. We had a light lunch and checked into our room. The hotel was an old monastery with the rooms surrounding a large square. After dark we walked around the town again and visited many shops selling alpaca clothing. It was then back to the hotel and to bed. 

The next morning we had a buffet breakfast and got ready for the tour we had arranged. We met our guide, Jhader and left Cusco. We drove to Chencero where there were many textile co-ops. We stopped at one and saw how the llamas and alpaca fur goes from the animal to the finished product. The demonstration showed how it was washed, rinsed, and dried. Then it was dyed using natural products like plants and insects. The yarn was then converted to thread and the thread was sent to the weaver. We then left and toured the Sacred Valley and the town of Ollantaytambo. The last part of our tour took us to Pisac where walked among the Incan ruins and visited the town market. At the market we bought a flute for Quinn and a scarf for Kate’s Christmas present. After a long day, we went back to the hotel and I had a massage and then we went out to dinner.

The next morning we walked to the Inkaterra Hotel to meet our Backroads trip leader, Jackie and the other members of the group. We loaded up a van and left Cusco for a hike in the outskirts of Cusco. After we had hiked for awhile, we came upon a tent that Backroads had set for our lunch. There also was a band playing traditional Inca music. After lunch we hike to some ruins saw a feature named Saosaywaman, known locally as sexy woman. Of course, the women who outnumbered the men had their picture taken under the sign. We then hiked back into Cusco. That night we had dinner at the nearby  art museum.

The next day, the trek really began. Our duffle bags with our gear were out by 7:15. We ate breakfast and loaded our backpacks with the things we would need during the day. We stopped at the Mallepata ruins and then had lunch at the Weavers Co-op. We got to the trailhead and began the 5 mile hike that would gain 1,312 feet of elevation. It rained and was cold and steep. We made it to Salkantay Lodge where we would stay for two nights. After a long hike, the sight of the lodge was quite welcomed. We warmed up, I got in the hot tub and had a delicious dinner.

This day we would hike to Huamantay Glacial Lake and back. It was about 4 miles round trip and very steep. At the top, overlooking the lake, we gathered for a ritual performed by two Quechuan shamans. It was a cultural celebration with offerings to Pacymamma. They performed prayers and chants over each one of us. We then hiked down the mountain to the lodge where Diane got a massage and I jumped in the hot tub.

The next day would be our big day with a hike over Salkantay Pass. It would take us over 15,000 feet elevation. We left early at 7 AM. It was cold and we had our warm clothes on. After the first two steep miles we stopped for a rest. The cold that Diane had contracted went to bronchitis. She was feeling lousy, had a cough and was short of breath. They offered her a ride on the horse and she took them up on it. The next two miles were even steeper and the pace slowed. The views were spectacular but most of the time the only view was that of your boots. We rested up for the final push. The last mile was the steepest. It was very slow going with very heavy breathing. We finally topped out at over 15,000 feet and threw our packs down. The weather was party cloudy and cool. We took pictures. We were offered hot coffee with Baileys and I quickly accepted a cup. After awhile we headed down off the pass. Down below, Backroads had set up a tent for us for lunch. Just as we entered the tent it began to rain hard. We had a delicious lunch and by the time we were done, the rain had stopped. Thank you, Pacymamma. We continued down to Wayra lodge very tired. Diane, feeling poorly, did not go to dinner.

This day we left Wyra Lodge and hiked to Colpa Lodge, a distance of about 6 miles but mostly downhill. We left and soon the trail entered the jungle. It was gentle hiking and the trail was muddy and rocky. I was walking with Jeff.  Diane was walking with his wife, Harriet. We had to step aside when a caravan of mules would pass us by. At about mile 3, I heard someone yelling and I looked down and saw Diane on the ground. She had slipped on the muddy trail hurt her ankle. I looked at it and saw that is was not dislocated which often happens with ankle fractures. I believed it was broken for I could feel crunching of the bones when I pushed on it. I asked Jackie for splinting material and she gave me a SAM splint and a roll of Coban. I fashioned a splint and wrapped it with Coban. We put Diane on a horse named 911 but still had 3 miles to go to the lodge. She would have to ride with her foot hanging down and I worried about the swelling that would cause. We got to the lodge and I examined it and put on a new splint and put ice on it. The trip was over for us. Arrangements were made to get us back to Cusco. It would be a 7 hour car ride through the mountains on winding roads. One of the guides went with as far as the outskirts of Cusco where we met an ambulance from the hospital. After a long ride in the ambulance we got to the hospital. Backroads had arranged for several people to meet us there. There was the Backroads doctor, an agent from Mountain Lodges of Peru, and there was Oscar. Oscar worked for Backroads and was our savior. Educated at the University of Houston, he was from Mexico City and spoke perfect English. X-rays were taken and confirmed that Diane had fractured her ankle on both sides. The traumotologist recommended surgery. I explained that I wanted her to have it in the states. They took care of her that night in the hospital and we made arrangements the next day to return home. Luckily, we had trip insurance that covered all our expenses. Oscar took care of everything. He took me to the hotel that night and picked me up the next day. When it was time to leave for the airport he took us there and stayed with us until we went through screening. That day I talked to a friend of mine, an orthopedic surgeon in Salt Lake and sent him the x-rays. We made it back to Salt Lake and went from the airport to the doctor’s office and surgery was scheduled for a few days later. The surgery went well and after 6 weeks of no weight bearing and 6 more weeks, Diane is back to normal and looking forward to our next adventure.